ROME

It has been a week or so since my return from Europe. I spent 17 days enjoying Italy on land and the Eastern Mediterranean by cruise ship. I love Italy and will be going back soon because the Trevi fountain told me so! (When I threw the coin in) I will be submitting my reviews in various blogs so they won’t seem so long. I started planning the trip in January and we traveled in early June. I guess you can say I worked on it for 6 months. First, we picked out the cities we wanted to visit and then the cruise itinerary and ship that would work with our dates. Next, I looked for hotels that were located near the train stations and between $150-$250 per night. Rome’s main station is called Termini. Through different websites and reviews, I found the Roman Residence on the main street of Via Cavour and we loved this hotel/B&B. We flew nonstop from Philadelphia and the hotel set us up with a driver that met us at baggage claim with our names on a sign. The driver, Guido, drove us to our hotel in Rome for 65 euro. Rome passed a law that certified taxis can charge no more than 40 euros for airport transfers to the city. We paid more because we had 4 people with luggage and had a specific company pick us up instead of queuing outside for a taxi. The Roman Residence is located in an old building (imaging finding an old building in Italy) and there were hotels and offices located on the various floors. We were on the 2nd floor (which is the 3rd floor because the 1st floor is always 0). There was a tiny elevator that would allow for two people or one person with luggage. Massimo is the owner and he was there to greet us. The hotel consists of a small hallway with five separate rooms. His office has a small kitchenette that is open to guests 24/7. He gave us an orientation of the hotel, gave us maps and discussed the city, transportation and restaurants, gave us our keys and we were on our way. He keeps a fridge in each room stocked with water, Coca-Cola, Prosecco and birra-aka beer. He has a supply room where we can refill the fridge as needed-no charge. The rooms were very clean and comfortable. They had a modern décor with large fresh flowers, a flat screen television and a large bathroom by European standards. They had a fancy Italian coffee maker and I loved the Marocchino. A continental breakfast was served in the hallway buffet area. We loved Roman Residence and would definitely stay there again! Massimo recommended la Gallina Bianca for lunch and this was around the corner from us on a side street. We loved their pizza and pasta and ended up eating there two more times because it was so good! On the first day we followed Rick Steve’s walking guide by taking a bus to Campo De Fiori and exploring the square and market. We walked down the street to the very large square called Piazza Navona. We loved the fountains, the artists, the people, and the ambiance. Next we walked by two Obelisks on quiet side streets arriving at the Pantheon. After we explored here, we walked to the Trevi Fountain and then to the Spanish Steps. These last two locations are very touristy and, thus, very crowded. We didn’t spend a lot of time at these places. Overall, we could easily manage this walk. The roads and pedestrian areas often consist of uneven stones with gaps between them so it make take longer for people that have injuries or poor balance to walk around Italy. We took the metro back from the Spanish Steps to Termini station and walked to our hotel and asked Massimo for a good local dinner spot. He gave us another suggestion and we walked a couple blocks away and sat outside and enjoyed the cool breeze and delicious Italian food while we talked and people watched! (I must add that we were in Italy from June 8-16th and I wouldn’t go any later because it was extremely hot and humid on the 16th and that’s how it was for the following week. Luckily we were on our cruise with a nice breeze but we talked to people at the airport and they were miserable in Italy during this hot spell.) On our second day we walked to the Colosseum.

We pre-arranged for a group tour participating in the special Dungeons and 3rd tier tour. It was worth every penny. The Colosseum is spectacular. Take as many tours as you can when visiting sites with ruins in Italy and beyond because it is easy to wonder around and just look at concrete remnants and have no idea what you are looking at. I saw a lot of people following their guidebooks or downloaded audio guides. After the Colosseum, we had lunch across the street at “Al Gladiatore”. For a touristy location, they sure offered up some amazing cuisine. All I am going to say is that lasagna, tortellini and pizza in Italy are superb! After a long lunch (when in Rome), we used our Colosseum ticket to enter the Roman Forum and Palatine grounds. These are ruins that are spread out and enclosed for you to explore. We did not have a guide and if we go back, we will have someone walk around the Forum with us! The large beautiful street out in front of the Forum was closed to traffic and we walked the beautiful large road toward a very large beautiful white building that had a large gate. It resembled the White House. There were soldiers by a burning fire out front memorializing the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. This massive and awe inspiring building is the National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II- The first King of Italy. After our long day of exploring, we took a taxi back to our hotel and ate, again, at the la Galllina Bianca. On Monday, we took the metro to the Vatican area and entered the Vatican. With our group tour tickets in hand, we again by-passed the long line and got right in. Our tour guide was wonderful. She is one of 200 people that live in the Vatican walls because her husband works there. The Vatican has many, many rooms and hallways that you WILL get lost in! The walls, floor, ceilings and space in between are all a work of art. These hallways and rooms are the museums. Famous artists have their work on display throughout the rooms and hallways. You really cannot see all the art work in one day!

After two hours or so, our guide walked us to the Sistine Chapel. It is here that it is a bit dark and the very large rectangle cathedral showcases Michael Angelo’s famous ceiling and paintings on the walls. His story is so interesting, and I don’t have room to write it all here. There were two guards at the front of the chapel on a stage saying “no photos” and “shhhhh” and “quiet” repeatedly. No one seemed to listen to them. I did, but I felt like I was being scolded the whole time I was in there. The Vatican is a busy place for tourists and if you don’t have a guide, you may get lost, and you might as well have the added value of knowing the art, the stories, and the secrets! After the Sistine Chapel we went to Saint Peter’s Basilica. Our guide took us there by a short cut and spoke to us for about 30minutes and then we ended the group tour. The Basilica is free and there is a very long queue to enter. I’m glad we had our group leader. We stayed in the Basilica for another hour exploring. It is too big to explain and too beautiful to put into words. We found a hidden staircase, which is not really hidden, and it led to the catacombs beneath the Basilica where Popes and dignitaries are buried in marble and wooden tombs. At the center, and open to the decorated alter above, is the tomb of the Saint and Apostle Peter. Leaving the Basilica, we saw the Swiss Guard, and headed for the post office and gift shop. We purchased some jewelry, post cards, and stamps and then mailed the post cards from the Vatican! We walked into the square and looked around in awe. We realized that we were starving and I had written down a restaurant in a nearby neighborhood in Travestere where the locals hang out. We found a taxi, showed him the address and asked how much. He said 15 euros and drove us to some alley about five minutes away, pointed down the alley, collected his money and drove off. Needless to say, he ripped us off! After going on a wild goose chase for this restaurant, we stumbled upon an open restaurant in an alley/road/pedestrian walk way/eating area. So confusing. But, the food was delicious and the wine hit the spot!

After a couple hours here, we walked across the Tiber River into downtown Rome. We did a little shopping and got some gelato and then found a taxi to take us home. This 15 minute ride was 8 euros. We got cleaned up, packed and woke up the next morning for breakfast and walked to Termini to catch our train to Florence by 9:30 am. I love Rome. It was cleaner than expected. There is so much to see and do. I will be back to explore!! Here is a helpful website: roninrome.com

Lancaster County, PA

A couple of blogs ago, I wrote about taking advantage of local getaways. These short weekends spent exploring something different can be energizing and add quality time spent with a loved one or your family. My husband and I were in need of quality time and drove two hours to Lancaster County, PA this past weekend.

Lancaster County, aka PA Dutch Country, is known by many as a largely Amish community. We stayed just east of the city of Lancaster and didn’t quite make it downtown because we took advantage of the quaint towns in the country side. What we found interesting is the blend of activities for tourists to choose from. You can take an Amish buggy ride or spend time at an Amish farm learning about their way of life and then head over to the Dutch Wonderland Amusement park or shop at one of the large outlet malls. This overlap of visualizing life in the 18th century with the roller coasters and fast food joints of today can confuse your senses. My husband and I chose to explore the peaceful environment of the country side. With no children in tow, we could drive and stop when we wanted to and just really enjoy each other, the beautiful weather, and anything that we found along the way. The towns in the area to explore are called Bird-in-Hand, Intercourse, New Holland, Ronks, and Strasburg. If you have a good map, you can easily get to these towns in one weekend. There are many places to take buggy rides with the Amish. These rides range from 20 minutes to 90 minutes and include different activities along the way. You can also take Amish tours. Do you remember the movie Witness? There is a movie tour on a farm where it was filmed. There are farmland tours where you can milk a cow, feed the animals, taste the homemade food, and pick fruits and veggies from the garden. There are train tours and theatres featuring energetic productions. The one experience that we thought would be great for families with teenagers would be the Amish Camp- leave modern life behind and live as the Amish do, complete with school lessons, cooking sessions, chores and no electricity. We also had a good laugh thinking about how our children might think we were punishing them. If you like antiques, furniture shopping, baked goods and jams, and driving the beautiful country side, then this place is for you. The custom made furniture quality is amazing and the price is unbelievable. The food is fresh and provides that nostalgic home-cooked meal you remember as a child. The popular dessert found throughout the region is called Shoofly Pie. It was delicious. Whoopie pies are also very popular. Of course, I tend to be a dessert person but I love their homemade pretzels. Have you had a buttery soft pretzel from the mall? This is similar but better! Especially when you are eating this in the country while watching the bouquet of animals interact peacefully in the backyard of an Amish home while a little Amish girl in her bare feet serves you a sample with some homemade root beer.

While we enjoyed shopping, eating, watching, and exploring, we couldn’t ignore the Amish men working their fields. They had between 4 and 8 horses pulling them through the fields while a dedicated dog ran beside them. Local families were seen in their buggies throughout the day going somewhere. I remember seeing Amish families near my home in Indiana but the concentration of Amish families in Lancaster County are much higher. I admire their hard work, their dedication and their peaceful lifestyle. I did envy it for a moment as I thought about trading mental exhaustion for physical exhaustion. It’s funny to think that our ancestors all lived this way at some point. Today, we have to go to the gym or go for a run to get physically tired. I hope that the tourism industry hasn’t exploited the Amish. If so, I am at fault too. I respect the Amish way of life and I did get a sense that the locals and tourists do as well, but that is without asking them. I encountered many Amish families and they were all smiles and very helpful. We will be going back to take our children and do buy some furniture on our next visit to PA Dutch Country! There are more pictures posted on my Facebook page. The link is at the top of the homepage.

San Francisco

San Francisco is one of my favorite cities in the United States. The weather is near perfect everyday with respect given to the season. The extended area has rolling hills. It is near the ocean. There is a multitude of history waiting to be discovered downtown AND in the extended Bay area. And as an added bonus, it is one of the best regions in the world to taste wine! Do you need to hear more before you decide to visit this gem underneath the Golden Gate Bridge? How about the fact that you can drive 3-4 hours and be in Yosemite National Park. Or what about the 3-4 hour drive to Lake Tahoe. By the way, these two locations are amazing on their own but they serve as an added bonus when a side trip to visit one or both is planned. How about a coastal drive south to Big Sur along one of the most breathtaking drives on Highway 1 with a stop along the beach to visit the enormous elephant seals? (I believe I have a picture in a previous blog) I could go on and on and on and on. So I will! But first, I must remind you that as a military wife, I have lived in a lot of different places. One of them was here in the Bay area to the East of San Francisco. Because of the public transportation, aka BART, we were able to get into the City quite often. I also want to add that you can kayak, boat, whale watch, view the surfer's tackling the giant waves at Maverick's, hike the hills and mountains, look up at the giant Redwood trees, head to a professional football, baseball, basketball or soccer game, eat your way through one of the many farmer's markets, and, did I mention, go wine tasting? If I were going to plan a trip to San Francisco, here is how I would do it. First, I would stay between North Beach (Little Italy)and Fisherman's Wharf. Yes, these are the tourist areas, but there are plenty of ways to get around the city and Bay area from here. This allows for a great location to the tourist destinations. Explore Tripadvisor, Frommers, Lonely Planet or one of the other online guidebooks with recent reviews of the hotels. Before we lived there, we made a last minute decision to stay in the City. I found the San Remo Hotel in North Beach. It is a quaint little place with a vintage appearance and Victorian decor, and, oh yeah, shared bathrooms. But, they had heated towel holders! Once we made it to the lobby to check in and saw the old man walk by in his towel brushing his teeth, I figured out this is a hotel/home type of lodging. To my surprise, we enjoyed it there and would go back! I loved the location and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. Okay, once you find your hotel, download a guide map so you won't get lost. Now, make reservations online to get into Alcatraz! Yes, it is worth it! Now, make reservations to see a show called Beach Blanket Babylon at Club Fugazi. Daytime is for families with children and evenings are for adults. If you enjoy comedy shows, this will have you hurting from laughing so hard. There are wonderful Italian restaurants and bakeries in North Beach. One of my favorites is Caffe Sport near Club Fugazi. Once you arrive in the City, visit the Wharf at Pier 39 to see the sea lions and eat the mini donuts (yes, after the bad breath of the sea lions wear off you will smell the donuts). Walk by the Boudin Bakery and stop in for a cup of clam chowder in a bread bowl. Walk to the Red and White Fleet and take the one hour historical Bay cruise for $20. Any time spent on the water is worth it! Afterward, head toward Ghiradelli. (Higher numbered piers) Notice the restaurants along the way. At night, the area on the water becomes alive with kiosks of fresh seafood served in a variety of ways. Watch out for the shrub man. He will jump out and scare try to scare you. On your way up to Ghiradelli for your free sample, stop at the little beach. Notice the swimmers in the 50 degree water. Look at your view. You see Sausalito, Tiburon, Angel Island (Ellis Island of the West), Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge. If you get a chance to ferry over to Angel Island, it is worth it. Rent a bike there and bike the 5 miles around the island. Now, walk up the little hill to Ghiradelli. Finally, get your free chocolate! They also have hot chocolate and ice cream. Did I mention that the City is all uphill. (It's not but it seems that way). The hills are so steep, you must be prepared so start walking today! If you like to bike, rent them and go! You can bike across the Golden Gate Bridge. I took my girls on this little 14 mile jaunt in the rain and wind. (They were 7 and 13) I loved it but I was old enough to drink a beer afterward! Once you are at Ghiradelli, walk back down to the trolley and ride this to the end. This is Union Square, a shopping mecca! Shop til you drop! Take your trolley back or take the F Muni, electric bus up Embarcadero and back to the Wharf near your hotel. It was $1.50 last time I was there. Just north of Union Square is Chinatown. This is a wonderful area to explore and there are many places to stop in for some dim sum. If you want more walking days, walk up to Coit tower for some great views. The bike tour will allow for you to see so much but if you can't do the bike, consider a city tour on an open bus. There are also the duck tours that give you the city and the water experience. There's Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, The Presidio and so much more. There are museums galore! At this point, you need to get to the library and read up on San Francisco to match your interests. Mark Twain once said, "The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco". So, my advice to is dress in layers and bring extra clothing, just in case! Trust me, you may buy a fleece and gloves in June! However, once you are 20 miles East, it could be hot enough to sunbathe! There is so much to do here and I can't mention them all but only give you my favorites. Once you have explored the city, have a plan to rent a car or allow for transportation or a guided tour to get you north into wine country (Napa and Sonoma). Take the BART to UC Berkeley and walk around the campus. Head over the Golden Gate Bridge into Muir woods for a quick hike to see the giant Redwoods. Head up to Bodega Bay to hike the ridge and watch the whales (the photo was taken at Bodega Bay and we saw many whales that day). Or, drive south to Half Moon Bay to kayak, have lunch on the water and if the waves are giant, there may be surfers at Maverick's. Don't forget to work in a side trip to Lake Tahoe for winter skiing or summer relaxing~ it is worth it! OR, there's always Yosemite! It's not called a National Park for no reason! I'll be honest with you. I would like to move back to the Bay Area when we leave the Army. It is high on my list for all the reasons mentioned and much, much more! Contact me if you have any more questions about the area or if you would like more infomation on the places I mentioned. gpurvis@cruiseone.com